Seit ca. 3 Tagen haben wir hier die ersten Vorboten des Monsuns: der Himmel ist voller Wolken, auch einige dicke dunkle Regenwolken sind dabei, und ab und zu blitzt und donnert es; gefolgt von einem kraeftigen Schauer.
Anschliessend ist fuer knapp 10 Minuten total frische und klare Luft, dann aber kommt das Waschkuechenklima zurueck. In einer knappen Woche wird der Monsun dann tatsaechlich erwartet.
Viel passiert ist in der letzten Zeit nicht, aber manchmal erleben wir hier Situationen, die man sich zu Hause nur schwer vorstellen kann. Oftmals ist es nur ein Blick aus dem Auto heraus, z.B.:
- ein Taxi, das im Kofferraum und auf dem Dachgepaecktraeger ca. 4 m3 Koriander transportiert
- ein Fahrradfahrer, an dessen Lenker 20 tote Huehner haengen
- ein Motorradfahrer, aus dessen Seitentasche eine Schwanzflosse eines nicht gerade kleinen Fisches herausragt
- 1 1/2 jaehrige Kinder, die komplett verdreckt auf dem schmutzigen Buergersteig schlafen
- Der Blick in das Gesicht einer voellig aberissenen Bettlerin, derern Klopfen an die Autofensterscheibe mich aus einem Nickerchen auf der Rueckfahrt aus dem Buero gerissen hat
Eine gute Erfahrung ist auch der Perspektivwechsel: so wie zu Hause jeder exotisch aussehende Mensch erstmal angeglotzt wird, werden wir hier auch freundlich-neugierig betrachtet. Paul ist dabei eindeutig im Zentrum des allgemeinen Interesses: fast jeder entgegenkommende Passant fuehlt sich genoetigt, Paul uebers Haar zu streichen oder ihm die Wange zu taetscheln. Diese Geste soll Glueck bringen, fuehrt aber bei uns dazu, dass wir ihn nach einer gewissen Zeit lieber tragen, um ihm dem "Gegrapsche" nicht laenger auszusetzen. Catrin hat ihm auch mittlerweile folgenden Satz beigebracht: "No, don't touch!" Die meisten Inder halten sich uebrigens auch daran.
Ein Hoehepunkt dieser verstaerkten Aufmerksamkeit war vor einiger Zeit Sonntags, als wir mit Ronny, einer lebenden Taxifahrerlegende hier in Mumbai (er ist ca. 60 Jahre alt, spricht sehr gut englisch und hat zu allem eine Anekdote parat) zu den "Hanging Gardens" gefahren sind (auf einem Bild auf der Photoseite ist er uebrigens im Gespraech mit mir zu sehen, als er es sich nicht nehmen liess, uns ein kurzes Stueck zu begleiten). Gegenueber diesem recht schoenen Parks ist eine weitere Gruenanlage, die mehrere Kinderspielplaetze enthaelt und daher an diesem Sonntag auch entsprechend voll war. An die neugierigen Blicke und das Geknuffe haben wir uns ja mittlerweile fast gewoehnt. Dann jedoch passierte folgendes: zwecks einer kurzen Rast setzten wir uns auf eine Bank, und ich kramte im Rucksack, der auf dem Boden stand, nach einer Flasche Wasser. Als ich wieder aufblickte, standen ca. 15 Inder (und das ist wirklich nicht uebertrieben!) jeden Alters im Halbkreis vor uns, mit Fotoapparaten bewaffnet, und knipsten uns, was die Kameras hergaben.
Aber es wurde noch besser: nachdem die erste Scheu offenbar ueberwunden war, wurden Wuensche geaeussert, Arm-in-Arm Photos in wechselnder Besetzung zu machen: Oma nur mit mir, Opa nur mit Catrin, Oma und Opa nur mit Paul usw. Auf der Photoseite gibt es ein Bild, das Paul und mich inmitten einer indischen Grossfamilie zeigt. Mein nicht ganz so froher Blick kann damit erklaert werden, dass dies nicht unser erster Phototermin an diesem Tag war. Jetzt weiss ich, wie sich Prominente fuehlen muessen! Man kommt sich wirklich vor wie im Zoo, nur dass man leider auf der falschen Seite vom Zaun ist.
Seit 2 Wochen haben wir eine "Maid", d.h. eine Dame in den 50ern namens Carmilina, die fast jeden Tag fuer einige Stunden kommt und sich ein wenig um den Haushalt kuemmert (buegeln, Obst schnippeln, hin und wieder kochen) und auf Paul aufpasst, damit Catrin tagsueber auch mal zum Sport oder zum Einkaufen gehen kann. Nachdem Paul im Anfang meinte "Mage nicht; die alte Frau soll wieder gehen", freut er sich mittlerweile, wenn sie kommt. Die Kommunikation zwischen den beiden ist allerdings etwas dadurch erschwert, dass sie nur Englisch spricht, was Paul ja nun noch nicht so ganz richtig beherrscht. Aber irgendwie kommen die beiden klar miteinander.
Was fuer uns, besonders fuer Catrin, eine Entlastung bedeutet, fuehrt andererseits zur fuer uns voellig ungewoehnten Situation, dass wir jetzt "Personal" haben, dass offenbar erwartet, auch so behandelt zu werden: Catrin hat es mittlerweile aufgegeben, Carmilina zum Essen mit an den Tisch zu bitten: sie (Carmilina) steht lieber in der Kueche, mit dem Ruecken zu uns, und blickt den Schrank an. Heute war ich mit ihr nahezu alleine in der Wohnung (Paul hielt Mittagsschlaf und Catrin war beim Sport), Carmilina buegelte und ich habe vor dem Rechner im Schlafzimmer gesessen. Gegen 16:00 wollte ich Paul dann wecken und betrat das Wohnzimmer, um zu Pauls Kinderzimmer zu gelangen. Dort hockte Carmilina, die offenbar mit dem Buegeln fertig war, auf dem Boden (3er Sofa sowie 2 Sessel waren frei) und verhielt sich vollkommen still. Obwohl Catrin ihr wiederholt gesagt hat, dass sie sich *natuerlich* auf das Sofa setzen kann, kauert Carmilina lieber auf dem Boden. Was fuer uns schwer gewoehnungsbeduerftig ist, ist fuer sie offenbar voellig normal.
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